Spending the Fourth of July in Rome, or any foreign city/country, offers a unique perspective of your own homeland. In some odd ways, it can be a real blessing to be outside of the U.S.A. for this particular holiday. Since it’s obviously not celebrated in Italy, you have to make an extra effort to recognize the importance of this day and deliberately contemplate what it means to be American in the 21st century. And these days, it can be an uncomfortable set of contradictions to wrestle with. (But no, I don’t really want to start THAT discussion.)
So if you happen to be in Rome for Independence Day, here are a few things that you can do to celebrate your patriotism while still enjoying the fact that you’re in Italy.
Museum of Emigration: I’ve been there a few times and it’s always meaningful for me to consider my Italian great-grandparents as they packed everything they owned into their “valigie di cartone” (cardboard suitcases…literally) and set out for the Land of Opportunity with 10 lire in their pockets.
They have some interactive exhibits there, including a computerized database and I’ve been able to locate the actual ship’s manifest that contained the name of my great-grandfather, Giovanni Zullo. This was no pleasure cruise on the Queen Mary; he was hunkered down in steerage aboard a “branzino boat,” and lucky to have survived the passage. The museum is located on the ground floor of the Vittoriano, P.zza dell’Ara Coeli, 1. Their website is bad, but here it is: Museo dell’Emigrazione.
Nettuno: This is even more emotional, if you’re up for it. Nettuno is a town on the coast, about an hour by train from Termini Station. This is where the Americans and the other allies landed during World War II and where many of them died in the subsequent battles. There is the Museo dello Sbarco with exhibits and artifacts.
But the most powerful moment is when you visit the American cemetery and witness the endless rows of graves. If one of your relatives served in the war, then this place is a must visit, whether it’s July 4th or not.
T-Bones Steakhouse: I’ve eaten exactly FIVE non-Italian meals in Rome and this was one of them. The others were sushi, Indian, and Chinese (twice)—and I regretted it each time. However at least this steak joint evoked a pleasant nostalgia as I choked down my Buffalo chicken wings, French fries, and a NY-strip. I dined at the one in Trastevere on Via Santa Dorotea, 21, but there are four locations around Rome. If you want a sentimental taste of home on this special day, you could do worse (such as the Roadhouse Grill).
American Embassy: I’ve heard rumor that prior to 9-11 the embassy used to have an annual celebration open to all US citizens in Rome. I was unable to find any specific events surrounding Independence Day this year on their website. But if you find yourself strolling the Via Veneto on July 4th, you could just stop by and say “Happy Independence Day” to one of the soldiers on duty outside and thank him/her for their service.
American International Club of Rome: Perhaps picking up where the embassy left off, AICR hosts an annual Fourth of July in Rome picnic for all U.S. citizens and their guests. It is a ticketed event, so check their website periodically for details. https://www.aicrome.org/upcoming-events/
It’s always a fun filled day with BBQ and other American favorites. The celebration will include music, a patriotic moment with The US Marine Color Guard presenting the Colors, The Star Spangled Banner, American antique cars, Italian Military, and the Annual Polo Game. For kids there will be lawn games with medals to be won and free face-painting. The day will finish with an awards ceremony. A patriotic moment with The US Marine Color Guard presenting the flag.
Hard Rock Café: OK, I’m not even sure you can really call this place American. I think it’s originally a British company, but it reeks of American pop-culture, in any case. Go there and order a hot dog or cheeseburger while admiring the mannequin wearing Madonna’s bustier as Bruce Springsteen screams, “Born in the U.S.A.” in the background. Don’t forget the Budweiser, too. Maybe they’ll even have NASCAR on the T.V. Thanks y’all, and Git-R-Done!
Fourth of July in Rome
In Rome, I’m often approached by Italians who want to ask me a specific question about America, or to impress upon me how much they admire my country; and I always willing to engage the conversation. I know there are also plenty of Italians who aren’t so keen about America’s foreign policy (neither am I these days, with the “Orange One” in the White House), but most of the time they are discrete enough to keep that opinion to themselves.
But usually it’s, “Wow, America! Figo!” I try to be humble and restrain any outward signs of my pride. There’s an expression in Italy for when somebody does well for himself, they say, “Ha trovato L’America,” he has found America—in other words, he has realized the American Dream.
I love Italy. The way of life suits me and I find myself constantly stimulated by the culture, the scenery, the history, the food, the art—all the usual dreamy-eyed exaltations. I speak a reasonable Italian, and have an Italian last name handed down to me from my ancestors. However, being Italian-American and being Italian is not the same thing; not even close. They are both great cultures with rich histories and traditions, but they bear very little resemblance to one another.
Once in a while I catch myself wearing a scarf in 75 degree weather, or making excessive use of hand gestures. My driving habits have “deteriorated” significantly, and I no longer put ice in my water. These little details are part of assimilation, I suppose, and I can’t deny that I enjoy the process. But the truth is that no matter how much time I spend in Italy, I will never see myself as anything other than 100% American. And I’m very proud to say so, especially on this holiday.
Here is yesterday’s 4th of July video with the American ambassador hosting a virtual celebration. Impressive! https://youtu.be/Awpt4DXetio
Years ago (60s-70s) there was an American who had a chicken farm outside of Rome and he would host a 4th of July picnic.
Great post, Rick. You mentioned places I had not thought of before. Will share with my Conversational Italian! group on Facebook. Feel free to share as well any time you like!
Great to have such a nice picture of your Great Grandfather! And very good celebration suggestions for the 4th, although I don’t know that I’d run out to the restaurants mentioned with so many other eating options Rome has to offer. By the way, I’ve always felt that the Vittoriano and everything inside is much overlooked.
As much as the media has beaten into Americans’ heads that they aren’t liked in Europe, I have also found that the overwhelming majority of Italians respond positively to Americans. Yes, as you say, there are sometimes mumblings about policy, etc., but I haven’t ever felt negatively judged as an individual for being American in Italy.
Thanks, Karen! Yes, I’ve also found that in Italy, Americans are treated warmly. And you’re right, when criticized, it’s always directed at government policy and not the population. Happy Fourth!
Yes, Karen, I have to say, on my last trip over the only thing that had changed is that bit of “puzzlement” Italians regarded me with as an American. One of my Italian friends asked me, “What is going on over there?” I hope that this year when I return I receive the same warm welcome the Italians are so well-known for.
Up north there is usually an ‘open base day’ on the US base in Vicenza: http://vicenza.armymwr.com/europe/vicenza/vicenza-events/independence-day-celebration/?eID=33951#.U7FRbnV53UY – it’s fun, although the first time I went it was pretty major culture shock, as I’d been in Italy without going back to the US for 3 or 4 years at that point in time. But it’s a good time in any case.
I’ve got to say though, I’m not feeling really enthusiastic about the US in this moment. We’re starting to think of moving back to the US, and I started researching it, and came across this:
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/02/09/us/program-benefiting-some-immigrants-extends-visa-wait-for-others.html?hp&_r=3
Checking the official site, it’s like a 5 month wait. This, for someone you’re married to, can support in the US, and in my case, is the mother of my children. It makes my blood boil to be treated like that.
Cool post Rick! As an American who just celebrated 4th of July living in Ireland I can really relate to what you’re saying about adapting to little things. Though Irish culture is certainly faaaaar more similar to American culture than Italian…But I lived in the Netherlands previously for 3 and 1/2 years and you most certainly adapt to lack of space, etc.
As for the 100% American thing, I used to feel that way, but something strange hit me at around the 5 year mark of living in Europe…I’m starting to actually FEEL European.
As for the difference between American and Italian-American, you mean Olive Garden isn’t real Italian? 😉
Thanks, Alex! And you mentioned lack of space…yes, you’re right and I need to discuss that more thoroughly in a future post. It’s one of the most difficult things to get used to. I know what you mean about feeling more European. I get moments of that myself. But I guess I haven’t spent enough time yet to cross the threshold where I feel more European than American. I enjoy both cultures in any case. And NO, don’t ever eat at Olive Garden! ha, ha Thanks again for your comments. Rick (P.S. I love your website–VERY useful information).
Thank you for the very kind words Rick! I go back and forth between trying to be useful and entertaining, haha. I’m really enjoying your site as well!! You give wonderful well written insight into a fantastic culture….My father is Greek and I have a Greek passport so perhaps this also contributes to my feeling European btw, haha…And no I no longer eat at Olive Garden solely on my own free will, but occasionally coupons have me return there with family or friends on a visit home to Orlando. Floridians love their chain restaurants!!! lol
Wow, didn’t realize that you’re from Orlando, too, Alex? Whereabouts, exactly? I grew up in Seminole County and went to Lake Brantley. Small world. And now that I know that about you, I’ll give you a pass on the Olive Garden visits. hahaha!
Wow indeed Rick! I grew up in Seminole County as well!! Casselberry (Deer Run) to be exact and I went to Lake Howell! Indeed small world!!…And yes you know Orlando, so you know why I visit some chains (Olive Garden just last December) every time I go home!! lol.
Grazie, Rick..and Happy 4th! I think it’s so important to remember what our ancestors went through to come to America and to appreciate our heritage (Italian in my case).
Saluti!
Grazie a te, Vittoria! Yes, it’s quite a moving exhibit…you should see it the next time you’re in Rome!
Rick,
I wish you a happy 4th of July!!!
OH, and a Happy 4th of July to you, too! Ciao!
Rick,
ignore Roe’s words. He hates Italy. About his article, how-italy-could-improve-english, I let you know that English and German both belong to the Germanic branch of the Indo-European language family. The North Germanic languages include Norwegian, Danish, Swedish, Icelandic, and Faroese too. Here why those folks speak excellent English.
Hi Jacob,
You make a good point with the linguistic analysis, and I’m sure you’re right about that. Although he didn’t mention it directly, I think that Alex was making a practical point regarding Italians’ access to the global job market (and perhaps the marketplace in general). Whether we like it or not, English will remain the lingua franca for the next 20-30 years, at least. Maybe it will be Chinese two generations from now, who knows? But unfortunately, it certainly won’t be Italian, as much as FrankCanada (and the rest of us) might prefer that. Italian is so much more pleasing to the ear, isn’t it? (Have you ever heard an opera in English, or God forbid, German? OUCH!)
Finally, I don’t believe that Alex hates Italy at all. In fact, the opposite. What sometimes sounds like harsh criticism might better be described as “tough love,” as I see it. People need to speak up and an English-speaking voice adds further reach to the social discourse.
See more at: http://italychronicles.com/how-italy-could-improve-english/#comment-35952
What a great Independence Day article, Rick! I know the Italians have numerous religious holidays that are observed nationally but what about a more patriotic one? Have I overlooked or forgotten one that the Italians love to celebrate in “red, white and green”?
Keep writing these informative and fun emails, Rick. You have a wonderful talent for writing–more like a conversation…Bravo!
CIao,
georgianna
Ciao, Giorgianna! Yes, actually there are several national holidays (La Festa della Repubblic–June 2nd), but you’re right–they sort of get lost in the plethora of religious holidays. And by the way, in Italy they say “green, white, and red instead of red, white, and green!
Rick,
Thanks much for these suggestions. We are planning to visit Rome in the fall and want to go to Nettuno/Anzio and do our patriotic duty for the soldiers who died there. We will also visit the Emigration museum, something I didn’t even know existed- they were fishermen from Sicily and southern Italy. We live in a community with many Italian-Americans on the coast of CA and often hear these stories of the courage it took to come with a cardboard box to start a new life in the unknown!
That’s great, Sabine, you’ll really enjoy those two stops. One thing I should have mentioned is that they are both free (the Emigration museum and the cemetery…not sure about the Museo dello Sbarco, it was closed the day I was there). Ciao and Happy Fourth!
I agree that the American cemetery in Nettuno is very moving. I visited there on a 2010 trip to Rome. I have also visited another American cemetery in Italy, but I can’t remember which one without leafing through a lot of journals. I remember wishing that they had left the fountains on in that one. It was in the fall too. I have also been to the American cemetery in Normandy twice. These are not to be missed sites/sights for thanking those who have helped save the world.
Thank you, Joan. And I agree, these are important sites to visit, especially on days like the 4th when we can all be grateful for the freedom we enjoy thanks to the sacrifices of others. Ciao!