Offbeat Summer Travel in Italy with Rick Zullo
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Offbeat Summer Travel in Italy

offbeat summer travel in italyIn Italy, summer is the time of year when the city residents evacuate the urban areas to find refuge in the cool mountain air, or with a refreshing swim in the sea. During July and August especially, Rome is devoid of Romans, and in the historical center the only folks speaking Italian are probably from Albania or Romania (like those guys dressed up as Gladiators in front of the coliseum).

Many Italians own second homes in the popular vacation towns, or at least have a favorite place that they return to year after year. As an expat, I think it’s more fun to go exploring different locations. And since Italy is so compact with interesting destinations, you rarely have to get on an airplane to find something new and exciting.

So this week, our little group of mischievous expat bloggers (COSI: Crazy Observations by Stranieri in Italy) has made some suggestions for offbeat summer travel in Italy. Not the usual recommendations, but moving down the list a bit to the sites and towns where the average tourist rarely treads.

tuscia_mappa

Click to see larger image

Very close to Rome is the area referred to as “Tuscia.” It’s not an “official” region of Italy, but historically it’s the area where the Etruscans once lived, right at the crossroads of modern day Lazio, Umbria, and Tuscany, roughly coinciding with the province of Viterbo.

Everyone is always searching for the next “undiscovered” area of Italy. With its proximity to Rome, it’s hard to believe that Tuscia has remained such a well-kept secret. But for those who want more from their visit to the capital than the standard tourist itinerary, a side-trip into Tuscia might be just the thing.

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Tuscia is also the integral part of the “Franciscan Road,” the ancient religious itinerary through which the pilgrims entered the city of Rome. It had to be performed on foot and usually with a group, carrying the insignia of the pilgrimage, which was the Key of Saint Peter.

In fact, with the announcement of this year’s special Jubilee, this trail will likely be full of “pellegrini” by the first week of December.

Tuscia offers a diversity of travel destinations. No matter if you’re a history buff, a foodie, an art lover, or someone who just appreciates the transcendent beauty of the Italian countryside, Tuscia has something for everyone.  Let’s look at a few of the highlights…

The Papal Palace of Viterbo

palazzodeipapiThe Palazzo dei Papi was built between 1255 and 1266, and then completed in 1267 with the addition of the elegant loggiato in the gothic style, which was incorporated to lighten up the original military look.

This location marks the beginning of the now traditional way in which popes are chosen, the so-called conclave. In 1268 after the death of Pope Clemens IV, the eighteen voting cardinals gathered in Viterbo to elect the new pope. After months of unsuccessful deliberations, it was suggested that the group be sequestered in this palace until a new pope was agreed upon. To inspire them further, they reduced their rations to bread and water. Then in a last desperate act, they removed the roof (scoperchiamento) to allow the Holy Spirit to enter the chambers and guide the cardinals in their decision. (Just when you think that religion can’t get any stranger…)

The Necropolis of Monterozzitarquinia

Near the coast of Lazio on a hill east of Tarquinia lies the famous and suggestive Etruscan Necropolis of Monterozzi. It has been called “the first chapter in the history of Italian painting” by the Italian archeologist, Massimo Pallottino.

The necropolis has a total of about 6,000 graves, and about 200 of them are decorated with colorful frescos, which date from the seventh to the second century B.C. A real marvel of ancient art, still well-preserved, and it was justly acknowledged as a Human Heritage site by UNESCO in 2004.

The Monsters of Bomarzo

bomarzo1“The Monsters’ Park” was built in 1552 by Vicino Orsini “only to vent my heart’s feelings” after the death of his wife Giulia Farnese. The natural rocks of the terrain were transformed into dreamy, grotesque sculptures: Sphinxes and Ermes, protectors of the city and travelers. There are giants that recall mythical heroes throughout the ages: Proteus, Hercules, and the Winged Victory. It’s a dramatic walking trail populated by the supernatural and cryptic; poignant with knightly allusions where good and evil battle in an enchanted forest under a magic spell.

This park has been a source of inspiration for several artists like Dalì, Afro, De Koonig. One stroll around the grounds and you’ll see why.

The Dying City of Bagnoregiobagnoregio

This evocative little hamlet rises from the Valley of the Calanchi and sits precariously atop a crumbling perch. Mostly likely, you’ve seen the pictures. It can only be reached by way of a pedestrian bridge, and from a distance recalls scenes from Harry Potter or some other such fantasy.

Not many people actually live here—at last count, only six residents. But its charm only increases with the constant erosion of the hill and the surrounding valley, leading to the slow but inevitable disappearance of il paese che muore or, “the dying city.” Come and see it before it’s gone!

St. Patrick’s Well of Orvieto

il pozzoThere are many, many reasons to visit Orvieto, and Il Pozzo di San Patrizio is certainly one of them. “Saint Patrick’s Well” was built together with water cisterns by order of Pope Clemens VII in 1527 to assure the town’s autonomy in case of invasion. The well is almost 62 meters (203 feet) deep and 13.4 meters (44 feet) wide. Two opposite gates give access to two “scale a chiocciola” (snail-shaped stairs); one to descend, one to climb, each with 248 steps.

Descend to the bottom and make a wish!

I’ve been to Tuscia myself on several occasions, and I always seem to find something new to discover. However, not all of these destinations are easily reached by train. If you want to see Bomarzo and Bagnoregio, for example, renting a car for the day might be your best bet.

Check out the posts by friends in our #COSItaly group for more suggestions on offbeat summer travel in Italy and beyond. And if you want to avoid making a “brutta figura,” make sure to check out our video on “How to be a good little tourist in Italy,” which gives advice and tips on proper manners while visiting the bel paese.

Girl in Florence: 5 Tips On How To Visit Italy This Summer and Not Kill Someone

Sex, Lies, & Nutella: Tips for Happy Travel in Italy

The Unwilling Expat: 5 Easy Steps for Becoming a Good Tourist in Italy

Englishman in Italy: Tips for the Intrepid Tourist

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Rick
 

Living in the Caput Mundi and trying to decipher Italian culture for the English speaking world.

  • Jordan says:

    Absolutely great ideas for people who have been to Italy before, or anyone who wants to do something other than the “typical” tourist locations. Thanks for sharing this great list!

  • […]  Rick (Rick’s Rome): Offbeat summer travel in Italy […]

  • ishitasood says:

    What a great post! COSI is doing a great job 🙂 Such treasures,. Had never heard of Tuscia!

    • Rick says:

      Grazie!! We’re trying our best, although sometimes it’s hard to coordinate everybody. Plan a Tuscia day trip next time you’re in Roma!!

      • ishitasood says:

        For sure then. Looked it up on google as well. Fascinating Etruscans. Every place every region is so different.. Its very much like India.

      • ishitasood says:

        Yes its hard to coordinate surely. Btw Rick I went to Umbria last month. It was beautiful! Less touristy.. I think you will like this castello I visited. Do read about it if you get time! Grazie. Ciao!

      • ishitasood says:

        Definitely will do Rick. Thank you. just came from an Italian trip so lets c when the next one happens! 🙂 ciao!

  • Bagnoregio is such a treasure, and so close to Rome. One my favorite discoveries. Great highlights, Rick!

  • MFFG/Fata #2 says:

    Hey! Over here! Why not come and see our town – Civita Castellana? It’s not JUST toilets you know…And it’s not just Etruscans in Tuscia. Our town was FALISCAN. A very different history, stunning landscape, great food, and the Biodistretto della Via Amerina.

  • Jeanie Beck says:

    Great article. My son would love to see the Monsters of Bomarzo. I’m currently in Bagni di Lucca. It’s a beautiful area.

    • Rick says:

      HI Jeanie, yes, I’m SURE he’d love that park…you have to go this summer! I hear Bagni di Lucca is lovely. Do you know Debra K. who writes a blog about that area?

  • Just watched the COSI video. Thanks for all the great tips! For a moment I thought Georgette wasn’t going to share Ginger with us. Andrea has a wonderful on-camera presence. I’m not a prude, but would like for Elizabeth to be a little more professional with her language considering your audience could be anyone, anywhere, and of any age. Keep up the good work!

    • Rick says:

      Grazie! It was a lot of fun, and I hope we can do more of them. In general, I’m enjoying the exploration of other forms of media beyond writing, such as my podcast and now the video. Just wish I had more time!

  • Paul Hierholzer says:

    Those crazy guys. They didn’t realize the Holy Spirit is not constrained by a roof.

  • All wonderful places to visit. I highly recommend spending time in Orvieto. Two years ago I almost died in Pozzo di San Patrizio. The lower level steps are damp and slick. I slipped on one, fell, and knocked myself out cold. That was a scary moment for my wife. I think I’m okay now. 😉

    Did not realize this was a jubilee year for the Via Francigena. Hope it’s not too crowded. We are planning to walk it next June and were seeking some solitude on the trail.

    • Rick says:

      Ciao!! Wow, so glad that you survived your encounter with San Patrizio! Have you since adopted him as your patron saint? He spared you, after all…

      Regarding the Jubilee, yes, it was just announced in April. It starts 8 December, I believe, and that’s likely to be the most crowded time. Many pilgrims will want to arrive in Rome on that day, so they’ll be hiking the trail in the weeks leading up to that. Just my guess….

  • Joan Schmelzle says:

    So glad to have a post to read at last. Sorry I just can’t bring myself to “listen” for 20 minutes plus. I did try with the eating in Rome one since I also subscribe to her posts.
    Though I don’t travel in the summer any more because I don’t have to any more, I have made it to three of your choices in the past. I did enjoy them. I have been to the Necropolis (there once was even a tour from Rome). I have stayed in Orvieto and visited St. Patrick’s well and also the “underground” area of the city besideds the usual. And I thoroughly enjoyed the Monster Park wandering and then on to Villa Lanta (I think) gardents. Even though I paid for a private driver for this, it was a really good investment I thought.
    A preso,
    Joan

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