A climate that you can\u2019t control<\/h2>\n
![\"steam-locomotive-63210_1280\"](\"https:\/\/rickzullo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/11\/steam-locomotive-63210_1280-1024x905.jpg\")
Around this time of year, you might hear people in Rome lament, \u201cWhen will they turn on the damn condo heat?!? Cheap bastards!\u201d<\/p>\n
Most apartment buildings have one central heating system in the bowels of the basement, and it doesn\u2019t get turned on until the decision is made by the penny-pinching octogenarian in charge because\u2014well, because their <\/em>parents had been in charge, and their parents before them, all the way back to the Ancient Romans.<\/p>\n In the US, most buildings (at least in Florida) are equipped with a combination cooling\/heating unit with a precise thermostat. In your home, your office, and your car\u2014you have total control over your environment. If you begin to feel even the slightest discomfort, simply tweak the thermostat up or down, and all is cozy in your world.<\/p>\n As a result, many Americans have the habit of constantly adjusting the thermostat the way others constantly check their email or Facebook.\u00a0 If the temperature varies more than one degree, they start pushing buttons or turning knobs until the environment bends\u00a0to their will.<\/p>\n It\u2019s the need for control more than any physical discomfort;\u00a0that American birthright of “self-determination” that we all treasure so much.\u00a0It\u00a0can be a\u00a0difficult\u00a0thing to concede to your landlord your first years as an expat in Italy.<\/p>\n Eventually I’ve learned the benefits of a sciarpa<\/em> (scarf), dressing like a cipolla<\/em> (onion), and other ways to adapt to the chilly air. To be honest, the hardest part for me is the darkness. The sun never seems to get very high in the sky, making the entire day feel like twilight. You leave your home or a restaurant after lunch and the sun is already setting. It\u2019s a bit depressing. Some people like it. I often hear of the \u201cwinter mood,\u201d especially in Venice<\/a>, where the gray light and ghostly fog produce a tangible melancholy favored by artists and writers.<\/p>\n \u201cCome back in November or December, in February or March, when the fog, la nebbia, settles upon the city like a marvelous monster.\u201d —<\/em>Erica Jong<\/p>\n If you\u2019re not inclined to a gloomy temperament, well, that\u2019s what grappa<\/em> is for. Or better, Italy has a variety of warm spirits created exactly for this reason\/season. (Check out my previous post about Drinking in Italy<\/a> for the scoop on such tummy warmers as Vin Brul\u00e9<\/em> and the Bombardino<\/em>.)<\/p>\n OK, let\u2019s say you\u2019re in Italy during the winter and you want to make the best of it. The beach clubs are closed, the ferries to Capri are suspended, and it\u2019s too frigid to sit in the charming piazza to enjoy your lunch nell\u2019aria aperta<\/em>. So then, what are some of the positive things that you can take advantage of this time of year?<\/p>\n To start with, you\u2019ll benefit from a much less crowded Italy than the fair-weather travelers will experience in May\/June. This means shorter lines at the attractions, more interaction with the locals, and no need for reservations at the restaurants. You\u2019ll also get a better price for your hotel room.<\/p>\n You can then choose to fully embrace the winter at one of the many world-class ski resorts. I recently interviewed a few companies offering vacations in The Alps<\/a>, or if you\u2019re in Rome, take the advice of my friend Liz Knight and head to Campo Felice or Roccaraso in nearby Abruzzo. She goes on to suggest, \u201cThe tiny medieval village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio is a breeze to get to. It looks like a fairy tale when blanketed in snow, and it\u2019s been named one of the \u2018The Prettiest Villages in Italy\u2019 thanks to its cobblestones, archways, and views.\u201d<\/p>\n If your visit coincides with the holiday season, make sure to check out the various Christmas markets and presepi<\/em> (Nativity scenes) happening in most cities and villages. You won\u2019t find as much \u201cin your face\u201d Christmas marketing in Italy as in the US (thank Christ for that…literally). Instead, there are some great traditional events that can really get you in the spirit. In Rome, there is the Museo del Presepio<\/a> near the Forum and the Christmas Market in Piazza Navona.<\/p>\nLet there be light!<\/h2>\n
![\"fog](\"https:\/\/rickzullo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/11\/venice-841638_1280.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nHow to enjoy winter in Italy<\/h2>\n