Fourth of July in Rome

Spending the Fourth of July in Rome, or any foreign city/country, offers a unique perspective of your own homeland.  In some odd ways, it can be a real blessing to be outside of the U.S.A. for this particular holiday.  Since it’s obviously not celebrated in Italy, you have to make an extra effort to recognize the importance of this day and deliberately contemplate what it means to be American in the 21^st century. And these days, it can be an uncomfortable set of contradictions to wrestle with. (But no, I don’t really want to start THAT discussion.)

So if you happen to be in Rome for Independence Day, here are a few things that you can do to celebrate your patriotism while still enjoying the fact that you’re in Italy.

Museum of Emigration: I’ve been there a few times and it’s always meaningful for me to consider my Italian great-grandparents as they packed everything they owned into their “valigie di cartone” (cardboard suitcases…literally) and set out for the Land of Opportunity with 10 lire in their pockets.

They have some interactive exhibits there, including a computerized database and I’ve been able to locate the actual ship’s manifest that contained the name of my great-grandfather, Giovanni Zullo. This was no pleasure cruise on the Queen Mary; he was hunkered down in steerage aboard a “branzino boat,” and lucky to have survived the passage.  The museum is located on the ground floor of the Vittoriano, P.zza dell’Ara Coeli, 1.  Their website is bad, but here it is: Museo dell’Emigrazione.

Nettuno: This is even more emotional, if you’re up for it.  Nettuno is a town on the coast, about an hour by train from Termini Station.  This is where the Americans and the other allies landed during World War II and where many of them died in the subsequent battles.  There is the Museo dello Sbarco with exhibits and artifacts.

But the most powerful moment is when you visit the American cemetery and witness the endless rows of graves.  If one of your relatives served in the war, then this place is a must visit, whether it’s July 4^th or not.

T-Bones Steakhouse: I’ve eaten exactly FIVE non-Italian meals in Rome and this was one of them.  The others were sushi, Indian, and Chinese (twice)—and I regretted it each time.  However at least this steak joint evoked a pleasant nostalgia as I choked down my Buffalo chicken wings, French fries, and a NY-strip.  I dined at the one in Trastevere on Via Santa Dorotea, 21, but there are four locations around Rome.  If you want a sentimental taste of home on this special day, you could do worse (such as the Roadhouse Grill).

American Embassy: I’ve heard rumor that prior to 9-11 the embassy used to have an annual celebration open to all US citizens in Rome.  I was unable to find any specific events surrounding Independence Day this year on their website.  But if you find yourself strolling the Via Veneto on July 4th, you could just stop by and say “Happy Independence Day” to one of the soldiers on duty outside and thank him/her for their service.

American International Club of Rome: Perhaps picking up where the embassy left off, AICR hosts an annual Fourth of July in Rome picnic for all U.S. citizens and their guests. It is a ticketed event, so check their website periodically for details. https://www.aicrome.org/upcoming-events/

It’s always a fun filled day with BBQ and other American favorites. The celebration will include music, a patriotic moment with The US Marine Color Guard presenting the Colors, The Star Spangled Banner, American antique cars, Italian Military, and the Annual Polo Game. For kids there will be lawn games with medals to be won and free face-painting. The day will finish with an awards ceremony. A patriotic moment with The US Marine Color Guard presenting the flag.

Hard Rock Café: OK, I’m not even sure you can really call this place American. I think it’s originally a British company, but it reeks of American pop-culture, in any case.  Go there and order a hot dog or cheeseburger while admiring the mannequin wearing Madonna’s bustier as Bruce Springsteen screams, “Born in the U.S.A.” in the background.  Don’t forget the Budweiser, too.  Maybe they’ll even have NASCAR on the T.V.  Thanks y’all, and Git-R-Done!

Fourth of July in Rome

In Rome, I’m often approached by Italians who want to ask me a specific question about America, or to impress upon me how much they admire my country; and I always willing to engage the conversation. I know there are also plenty of Italians who aren’t so keen about America’s foreign policy (neither am I these days, with the “Orange One” in the White House), but most of the time they are discrete enough to keep that opinion to themselves.

But usually it’s, “Wow, America! Figo!” I try to be humble and restrain any outward signs of my pride.  There’s an expression in Italy for when somebody does well for himself, they say, “Ha trovato L’America,” he has found America—in other words, he has realized the American Dream.

I love Italy. The way of life suits me and I find myself constantly stimulated by the culture, the scenery, the history, the food, the art—all the usual dreamy-eyed exaltations.  I speak a reasonable Italian, and have an Italian last name handed down to me from my ancestors. However, being Italian-American and being Italian is not the same thing; not even close.  They are both great cultures with rich histories and traditions, but they bear very little resemblance to one another.

Once in a while I catch myself wearing a scarf in 75 degree weather, or making excessive use of hand gestures.  My driving habits have “deteriorated” significantly, and I no longer put ice in my water.  These little details are part of assimilation, I suppose, and I can’t deny that I enjoy the process.  But the truth is that no matter how much time I spend in Italy, I will never see myself as anything other than 100% American.  And I’m very proud to say so, especially on this holiday.